Jack Kerouac

I got up early to finish my packing then I sat on the French balcony for one last time, enjoying the view of Etna in the early morning sunshine. It was heavenly; birds, bees and the occasional butterfly flew around me. A damsel fly landed and sunbathed on a nearby post.

As soon as Mr C had finished his packing, we enjoyed one last Sicilian breakfast. Afterwards Mr C went to the local shop to buy biscuits (as is the custom) for his work colleagues.   While he was doing this, I had time to watch Etna as it started to belch out frequent ash plumes into the sky. The mountain had been obscured by clouds for a few days. When Mr C returned it was time for us to check out of the hotel and walk along the hotel terrace to pick up our taxi to the airport. We arrived in good time, our taxi had already arrived and the driver Francesco, walked down to meet us and helped me with my luggage. Then we were off on our way to Catania airport.

We traveled in luxury, he drove a Mercedes. His driving style was smooth and steady and we arrived at the airport in super quick time. The temperature was 79°F as we arrived and joined the easyJet queue to check in our baggage. As we were queuing someone next to us in the queue informed us that our flight had been delayed due to Volcanic ash from Etna. We learned later that the wind direction had changed blowing ash towards the airport leading to some of the runways being out of action. The fascinating ash plumes I had been watching earlier were now delivering an entirely different experience for me.

Catania airport was in chaos, people all over the place and not enough seats for everyone to sit on. I had a cappuccino and a marmalade croissant whilst we awaited our flight, delayed by 1 hour 10 minutes. Even getting to the food counter to purchase food was difficult with people milling about in the way.

Although no further announcements had been made about our flight, we decided to go through the boarding gate where we found it to be less chaotic. There was a further flight delay but eventually we boarded our plane where the captain announced that we were third in the queue for takeoff, he was just awaiting the go ahead from traffic control. A little while later a ‘rather fed up’ captain made a further announcement; easyJet had changed the flight plans, the doors and boarding steps would have to be re-opened whilst awaiting the new paperwork to be delivered. The captain quipped that we might see someone rushing across the tarmac with papers in hand. Eventually the doors were re-closed and we were on our way 2 hours later than scheduled.

We arrived at Manchester around 17.45, thankfully our luggage came through quickly. Luggage retrieved we proceeded to the ‘meet and greet’ parking to pick up our car for our homeward journey. The delays meant we had to find somewhere to dine on our way home. Our first choice could fit us in but we would have to wait nearly an hour for food. Mr C perused TripAdvisor for nearby eateries and found the ‘Rifleman Inn’. He phoned to see if they could accommodate us and thankfully they could. The pub was quite hidden away but when we eventually found it, the food was delicious and the waitress was a delight. We got into conversation about her upcoming holidays to Gdansk and a November holiday in Cyprus along with reminiscences about previous holidays.

We eventually got home around 22.00, put the heating on and unpacked…

We arrived at breakfast bright and early I opted for the Sicilian breakfast option of Granita and Brioche which I found refreshing. Suitably replete we walked to the bus station to catch a bus to Giordanno-Naxos. When we arrived in Giordanno-Naxos I suggested to Mr C that we checked the location of our return pick up point for the bus. He rushed off ahead across a busy road leaving me to catch up whilst I chose the safer walking option via zebra Crossings. I caught up just as he identified the bus office. When I caught up with him he pointed out the bus office to me.

We then started to walk along the bay in glorious 75f sunshine stopping off for a cappuccino along the way. As we walked along, in places the sea was crashing over the road.

We continued our walk along the bay eventually arriving in the harbour where we found a lovely restaurant called ‘La Lanterna’; it provided pizzas at lunch time.

We ordered a four seasons pizza; ham, egg, fennel and tomato, to share, it was delicious. We accompanied this with a glass of wine for me and a beer for Mr C. The sea view from the restaurant was spectacular. We lingered over our drinks as we were mesmerised by the breaking waves.

We retraced our steps along the bay and visited the archaeological park that we had noticed earlier. The museum was excellent and the park extensive, the latter we were not able to explore fully due because of the mid afternoon heat. Afterwards we visited a nearby cafe for a refreshing, hydrating drink before making our way to the nearest bus stop; the opposite end of the bay to where we arrived earlier in the day. We noticed that the buses stopped here less frequently so we walked along the bay towards the main bus stop, passing many bus stops along the way noticing the arrival time increments at each bus stop. The bus should have been behind us as we walked but in reality there was not a bus in sight!

Mr C decided to deviate from this route and back to the road where the bus had dropped us off. Back at that road happy that he knew where he was, we returned to the bus route past the bus office, which was not a the stop after all. As we turned the corner towards the bay we saw two buses at the bus stop, both about to leave. We had missed them!

The next bus was due in 30 minutes. We waited, and waited, and waited a bit longer, by this time two buses were overdue. A bus turned up 15 minutes later than the first bus was scheduled to arrive. The bus was full with very few seats left, we ended up on two seats near the back of the bus. Unfortunately they were in the reclined position and the lever was broken causing a problem for the couple that sat behind us.

Eventually back in Taormina, we purchased some bottled water; we had become dehydrated again. As we walked back along Corso Umberto, I visited a shop that Mr C had pointed out to me earlier in the week; a shop selling Italian leather bags where a particular range had caught my eye. I had a particular colour in mind and Mr C helped me find just the right bag. I tried the bag for size and shape, it was perfect. As I made my purchase I was told that there was a 30% discount off the ticket price and that the bag had been hand painted meaning that all the designs were unique.

Back at the hotel we had to rush to get refreshed for dinner at 7.30 rather than the more normal time 8.00. It was our last night and Mr C had his eye on packing before we went to bed.

We dined in ‘La Lanterna’, although the same name not the same restaurant where we had lunch. We were greeted with a complimentary glass of prosecco to enjoy whilst we considered our menu choices. The restaurant was in a lovely setting but sadly we were the only couple dining there until we had almost finished our meal. The food was delicious and the dessert was served with a complimentary liqueur. The host was attentive but for some reason only topped up Mr C’s glass with wine. This was quite blatant at the end of the meal when, my glass empty, the remainder of the wine was poured into Mr C’s glass!

Back at the hotel we sat on the terrace to enjoy the view for one last time. There was a bit of confusion when my drink arrived… Mr C had gone to the bar to order drinks and had not returned before the drinks arrived. I had requested a glass of wine and was surprised when the waiter delivered a glass of prosecco, leading both me and the waiter to be confused. It transpired that Mr C had ordered me a prosecco to make up for the wine experience in the restaurant.

After a while another couple arrived. They ordered cocktails and were served with a smile and complimentary nibbles. A few minutes later the cushions were being removed from unoccupied chairs. I noticed the porter flicked his eyes to the seat next to me, where I had placed my handbag and camera and by sleight of hand the cushion next to Mr C was removed. How rude!

The other couple were left with their row of cushions intact, leaving us with the uncomfortable feeling that we were not welcome. The bartender was on a day off so once again we were attended to by the pool bartender. We were sorry to miss the usual bartender and not have the opportunity to thank him for his hospitality, informative conversations and advice.

Back in the room, after packing my case I peeped out of the window towards the hotel terrace. The other couple had left but their row of cushions was still in place with their empty drink glasses were still on the table…

Our alarm was set for 6.30 to enable us to arrive for breakfast at 7.30 (as the doors opened). As we arrived we were surprised to find that the room was quickly filling up with a large number of Americans. We couldn’t help but overhear their loud conversations; they were joining a trip to Etna. We wondered if they were going to be travelling on the same trip as us.

Breakfast was a bit of a rush; we had a taxi booked at 7.55 to take us to Taormina bus station, the joining point for our trip to Etna.

The coach arrived on time and we were surprised that it was a double decker. We found a good seat on the top deck. The tour guide pointed out interesting places and features as we traveled, also sharing the history of the area. As we entered the Alcantara Gorge (unlike our previous trip to the gorge) she explained all the things that we could do in our one hour visit to the gorge.

We chose not to go down to the gorge, instead we set off on a walk to enjoy the parkland and viewpoints looking down on the gorge from above.

Next we continued on our journey to Etna where we had (a rather rushed) lunch before enjoying the Etna experience. Mr C decided to go further up the volcano, via cable cars and jeeps so that he could experience a walk around one of the live craters. I chose to stay lower down the mountain and enjoy a walk in the Silvestri Crater area,  which are extinct but fascinating to see.

I walked to the top of the crater where I encountered strong winds followed by mist and rain. It was all I could do to stay on my feet. As I walked down off the crater the rain had stopped and the mist had lifted.

I considered walking another nearby route to see the effects of  lava flow. Looking up at the walkway the mist came down and completely obliterated the area, a noticed a lone figure at the top of the hill disappearing into the fog. I decided that with a deadline to meet, walking up alone was not a good idea. As I made my way back towards the cafes and souvenir shops I could hardly see where I was walking.

By the time I got back to the cafes the rain had stopped and the fog had lifted. I purchased a book on Etna and had a cappacino in one of the cafes. As I was leaving Mr C popped into view, the cable car had arrived sooner than expected.

Driving back from Etna we had a brief (not advertised) stop at a honey farm where we were able to taste mini samples of their produce. To my palate the honey was not as good as the honey we got from Chain Bridge Honey farm on our frequent visits to Northumberland.

Back at the hotel we chilled out before dining in Casa Nicolodi restaurant. We sat in a rooftop garden area with rustic walls, leafy trees, lemons and pomegranates. The food was lovely and the service so attentive that we felt we had been welcomed into a family home. On this occasion I chose sea bass coated in almonds with fennel and almond salad followed by Sicilian citrus mouse. Just as we were finishing our wine the heavens opened and everyone dashed inside,  seating themselves at the available indoor tables. The hosts were duly attentive in making sure that everyone was comfortably relocated.

As on the previous day I enjoyed chilling (with a book) out on the French balcony in the early morning sunshine whilst Mr C snoozed for a while. Our plan for the day was to visit the Alacantara Gorge on the CityBySee bus but, once again, the trip set off at lunch time leaving the morning free.

Photo taken by Mr C

As we were leaving the hotel to visit the municipal gardens, the hotel’s  resident dog took a fancy to me. He came running past Mr C and jumped up at me with a waggy tail, putting his paws on my legs. At one point the gorgeous dog put his paws on my hands.

After this delightful encounter we revisited the municipal gardens to enjoy a relaxing and tranquil morning. Shortly after we arrived Mr C realised that he had left his hat in the hotel room. While he walked back to the hotel  to retrieve his hat, I stayed in the gardens to explore them at my leisure. I enjoyed my slow paced walk around the garden, seeing things that I had missed on our previous visit.

When Mr C returned, hat in hand, we left the gardens and headed in the direction of the bus station. Our walk took us past what was described on our previous days tour as a Romantic Ruin and also the Necropolis, which is the remains of an old Byzantine cemetery, before finding a viewing platform looking out over the Isolla Bella bay.

Next to the viewing platform there was a convenient cafe, L’Oblio, it was a cafe with a view. As we were being served with drinks before our food order of aranchini arrived, the waiter somehow managed to unbalance the drinks on the tray causing mine, a fresh orange drink to be spilt. Luckily he missed me.

After enjoying lunch and the views, it was time to walk the short distance to the bus station to board the bus to the Alcantara Gorge. We were treated to amazing views and driven along many narrow almost un-navigable streets whilst listening to the interesting commentary of the various things we were seeing. The Gorge itself was beautiful and, on this brief trip, the focus was using the lift to get down to the gorge and the free wine tasting available in the shop area.

We descended to the gorge but due to time constraints we were unable to explore much more than that. We had just enough time to see the 3D video experience and to find out that the free wine tasting was only mini morsels of food and liquors. The tasting session was rushed and designed to lure tourists into buying the local produce. After the previous days experience we made sure we were back at the bus in plenty of time.

Back in Taormina, we stopped for refreshments in a cafe bar before indulging in an Italian ice cream. In the hotel I had a relaxing soak in the bath which was briefly interrupted by Mr C providing me with an unexpected glass of Prosecco!

Shortly after this  ‘room service’ provided us with biscuits after two days absence…

We dined in Le Quattro Fontane where the food and service were excellent. I chose seabass, it was served in a butterfly style and was delicious. I followed this with Cassata; all I can say is WOW!

We made our way back to the hotel for an early night to be ready for an early morning start for our visit to Etna.

We arrived in the breakfast room earlier than the previous day and to our relief it was a lot less chaotic. It being the weekend, we indulged in a glass of Prosecco with our breakfast. In my case I paired it with fruit; sadly strawberries were not on the menu.

Suitably replete, we walked to the main bus station in order to catch a bus to Taormina-Giordani station to check out the train availability to Syracuse, where we planned to visit later in the week. We also inquired if there was a scheduled bus to Syracuse and were told that there were no scheduled buses there but later in the week we found that this advice was incorrect!

Unfortunately we found that the the train station ticket office was closed and we were unable to inquire about about our proposed journey. There were no physical train timetables available to peruse at our leisure so Mr C photographed the wall-displayed timetable to allow him to figure it out at his leisure. Our journey was not wasted, the station with its fine ceiling and architecture was well worth a visit.

After our brief but unproductive visit we hopped back on a bus to Taormina where we enjoyed a mid morning cappuccino in a cafe opposite the tourist information office where we hoped to get advice about a visit to Syracuse by public transport. Unfortunately it was shut; we had forgotten that it was Sunday.

We investigated some of the Taormina alleyways and found ‘The Odeon’, a small Roman Theatre nestling between more modern buildings, we stopped off for lunch in a cafe where, on a previous day, we had enjoyed a refreshing drink overlooking Piazza Duomo. On this occasion I chose to indulge in a strawberry pancake which was delicious.

We headed back to the hotel where we intended to linger over a bottle of Prosecco by the hotel pool, chilling out in the afternoon sunshine. Our requirement seemed to have been lost in translation so we ended up with a couple of glasses. The bar attendant seemed to be rushing us…

Later we dined in  Rosso De Vino (mentioned in my previous p0st). The food, staff, service and venue were wonderful. We were provided with the menu and shortly afterwards a member of staff arrived to explain the specials board and the catch of the day platter.

The platter was a dish of whole fish presented for us to choose from. The waitress advised that all the fish could be cooked to our exact requirements using fresh, authentic Sicilian ingredients. She further advised us that we could choose a fish to be cooked in two different ways for sharing. Mr C chose the ‘Big Eye’ fish which is local to the area and we opted for two different cooking options (pistachio coated and Sicilian style with olives and caper) so that we could enjoy different tastes of Taormina fish cuisine.

Mr C added a starter of dish of Carpaccio fish which we shared and both of our dessert options were delicious

Whilst we were dining Mr C decided against going on his planned visit to Syracuse. The journey would take up to much time (four hours return journey) and would not be relaxing. We had a plan B…

This was the third day in a row that we had to plan breakfast around a meeting with the tour rep. We decided to go in for breakfast and Mr C slipped out to pay for the trips. In the end he only paid for the Etna trip as there was still doubt surrounding the Aeolian Islands trip.

After the meeting and breakfast, we headed into town and caught the cable car down to Isola Bella Bay where we took our life in our hands walking along the narrow roads, dodging the cars. Our walk was interrupted by a sprinkling of rain so we took the cable car back to Taormina where we had lunch overlooking the Cathedral square.

We visited the Sicilian Cart Museum then briefly returned to the hotel before visiting Palazzo Dei Duchi Di Santo Stefano which is a Norman structure situated near to Porta Catania. The interior of the building is used by the G. Mazulla foundation. The works of this artist are displayed in the palace and the gardens.

We next enjoyed a refreshing drink overlooking Piazza Duomo, soaking up the atmosphere in the Italian sunshine. Some things just have to be done.

Whilst we were back at the hotel getting ready for our evening meal the wind got up and we heard a loud crash. Initially we thought something had blown over until it dawned on us that it sounded like a motor accident; several roads are just below the hotel. I looked out of the window and saw people looking over the wall and photographing/videoing the scene below, which I found upsetting. However once again I was able to watch the sunset over Etna.

Later, as we walked to Trattoria Tiramiso Taormina for dinner, we saw the remains of the accident which was still being attended by the emergency services. I was left hoping that no one was seriously hurt. Whilst dining we got chatting to two Americans who were sharing their holiday experiences with us. Also whilst we were dining the tour rep texted to advise that despite the bad weather the Aeolian Islands trip would go ahead, but by now we had gone off the idea and didn’t want another interrupted breakfast…

We were ready for breakfast slightly later than intended so because we had arranged to meet Sylvana to pay for the trips we had chosen, breakfast was delayed until after the meeting. We had chosen one of the Etna trips and a visit to the Aeolian Islands and Stromboli. We were informed that Stromboli had erupted earlier in the year and so it might not be possible to land and also forecast bad weather might cause the sea to be choppy. She suggested that we decide later in the week when she had more news. This meant that she did not take any money for either trip!

We had intended to visit the Greek Theatre early before the day got too warm but this delay and Mr C having an unexpected phone call meant that we got there later than we intended. The Greek Theatre is impressive and there are some stunning views from the top tier.

When we had finished the self guided tour, it was time for lunch so we headed back into town to find a suitable cafe bar. After lunch we visited the remains of the Roman bath house, the Church of St Joseph, the Church of St Augustine (now the town library) and the Cathedral of St Nicholas before returning to relax by the hotel pool.

That evening we dined in Ristorante Malvasia which served excellent local food with friendly service and atmosphere. We returned to the hotel for a nightcap on the hotel terrace looking out over the bays. We got chatting to the bar manager and he pointed out Taormina Bay, Catania, a small part of Syracuse and also the mainland of Italy. The wind got up slightly which was refreshing after the heat of the day.

The breakfast room was light and airy and the buffet spread was comprehensive, including some rather sweet looking choices that were not quite to my palate first thing in the morning. After breakfast we met with Sylvana, the Citalia rep. She told us about the various trips that were available and where to find things in Taormina. We decided not to choose there and then but consider the options, especially the different types of trip for visiting Etna.

We headed into town enjoying the streets and shop displays before it got too busy with guided tours. We stopped for coffee before heading off to the municipal gardens. We got a bit off track and ended up by the Greek theatre which we decided to leave for another day. Instead we went in search of the main bus station so that we could check the timetables and see if the was a scheduled service to Syracuse. We failed to find the bus station although we passed by the cable car terminal.

We headed back into town for lunch before setting off on another route to locate the bus station, again without success. Instead we located the correct path to the municipal gardens. The gardens were lovely, and, quiet after the hustle and bustle of the town.

The weather was sunny and perfect as we enjoyed the garden but as we left there was an ominous rumble of thunder in the distance. On our way back to the hotel we stopped for a cool refreshing sorbet ice on a stick. Lemon flavour was the obvious choice for me.

Back at the hotel we decided that we would sit and read by the hotel pool although the idea was slightly delayed due to a short rain shower. Eventually we walked through the delightful hotel gardens to the pool area where the sun graced us with its presence once again. Later when we headed back to the hotel there was another lite sprinkling of rain with thunder and lightning in the distance.

I had in indulgent soak in the bath before heading out for dinner in restaurant Don Camillo. I had freshly cooked fish with potato and onion salad whilst Mr C had stuffed squid. We both had cannoli for dessert although they were filled with custard cream rather than ricotta cheese.

After dining we returned to the hotel terrace for a nightcap accompanied by live music. A fortieth birthday party was taking place; this should have been on the terrace but the earlier rain meant that the celebrations had moved indoors to the conservatory area.

We were up, not necessarily bright but early, at 4 am in order to be at Manchester airport for a 5.30 check-in. The heavy rain that had started the previous afternoon had almost stopped as we loaded our luggage into the car. At the airport we headed to the check in desk and found that a self check-in and baggage weighing service was in operation. This caused a few people to have problems scanning their luggage onto the conveyor belt, the label had to be facing in just the right direction for the camera.

Successfully checked in and scanned, we headed to the security check with thoughts of breakfast once we had cleared security. I was a little surprised that my bag was sidelined into the queue for manual checking. It was a long queue with several people that hadn’t packed their hand luggage appropriately. This gave me plenty of time to wonder which of the few items in my bag could have raised an alert. When it was my turn I was informed that my bag hadn’t scanned and it was returned to the conveyor belt and I was told that if it didn’t go through I was to go straight to the front of the queue. Thankfully my bag went through the scanner with no further problems.

We had our long awaited breakfast before passing through to the boarding gate. Whilst we waited to board the plane a lady got chatting to us about all manner of interesting things although it was a bit much for me, so early in the morning. Once everyone boarded the plane the captain stepped out of the cockpit to address the passengers. He told us that the co-pilot had phoned in sick and a replacement was on his way but he was contending with the Manchester rush hour traffic. The plane left 30 minutes later than planned and as we left UK airspace the inclement weather faded into the distance. At one point we flew over Lake Geneva and the Alps which were amazing seen from so far above.

On arrival at Catania airport we stepped off the plane into brilliant sunshine and passed through immigration and collected our baggage without any hiccups. Our private transfer was waiting for us, and as we drove to Taormina, our driver pointed out various towns and landscape features along the way. The view of Etna was looking lively with smoke venting from its summit. On arrival at the hotel we were shown to our room which had a French balcony on one wall and a full length window on another wall allowing us views of both Etna and the sea. We left our cases unpacked and headed into town for a late lunch. I ordered bruschetta which turned out to be a lot larger than I was expecting.

After lunch we went for a walk along the main street, Corso Umberto I, walking further than we intended ending up at the Porta Messina gateway, our hotel being situated next to the Porta Catania gateway about a mile away. On the way we stopped in Piazza IX Aprile to see the views over the Naxos bay. Later we sat on the Caffe Wunderbar terrace with a glass of wine, enjoying the view before returning to the room to unpack.

As we were getting ready to dine in the hotel restaurant we enjoyed the view of Etna whilst the sun set behind it and the moon rose above. During this time there was a call at our door (there was a small doorbell outside which we had not noticed). On opening the door the gentleman announced, “Room service”, and presented a plate of small biscuits.

We enjoyed our meal and finished our wine outside in the warm evening air enjoying the view of the bay below the hotel terrace.