I awoke after a cosy and comfortable nights sleep and had to remind Mr C that it was my birthday, he had taken control of my cards and presents and they were tardy in being given.

We descended to the dining room for breakfast. It seemed rather quiet and we found out that breakfast was in the Sky Lounge on the 5th floor, something they forgot to mention when we booked in. We eventually arrived in the breakfast room to find the room and breakfast choices were perfect, partly self service but with the cooked food being waiter served from the counter. We even had a window seat looking out over Harrogate, causing us to linger over breakfast.

Comfortably replete, we walked to Valley Gardens. Mr C needed to dial in to an office conference so he chose a suitable bench whilst I explored the gardens. I ventured further afield than on our previous visit and noticed a sign for the Pinewoods. I couldn’t resist the temptation to walk along the pathway. The walk was delightful in the autumn sunshine until, with reluctance, I turned back and retraced my steps to return to the gardens to coincide with the time I thought Mr C’s phone call might end. As I walked along the garden pathway Mr C was coming towards me and we finished my circuit of the garden together. In one of the trees next to the path I was treated to a display of birds playing in the lower branches, including a nuthatch that ventured quite close to me.

We headed into Harrogate town centre for a wander before lunch in Betty’s where I chose a Salmon sandwich and a cake with almonds. Something went wrong and our sandwich was delayed. We were given an apology and offered complimentary drinks for our patience (we hadn’t even complained).

We enjoyed the afternoon in Knaresborough, enjoying a town and river walk in glorious sunshine. The Remembrance Day display around the castle was spectacular and moving. After our walk we returned to the hotel to relax before dining in the Fat Badger at the White Hart Hotel.

I was considering the possibility of a bubbly aperitif whilst we perused the menu when out of the blue a couple of complimentary glasses of Prosecco arrived because it was my birthday. The restaurant was loud and bustly, the food and service excellent, I chose fishcake with an egg on top and was too full for a dessert.

After dining we returned back to the relative calm, but still vibrant, atmosphere of our hotel bar where we had a lovely phone call with my brother and his wife. They had tried to call whilst we were dining but we’d missed it due to the noise level.

Bebra Gardens is a small, attractive park close to Knaresborough Castle.

This hidden gem, which provides a haven from the hustle and bustle of the town centre is named in honour of the town’s links with Bebra, Germany.

The gardens are on a steep slope and there are sloping, meandering pathways leading through mature trees and conifers. The paths lead to the paddling pool at the lowest point and onto Waterside below.

The memorial commemorates the residents of Knaresborough who were killed or missing in World War I (155 names) and World War II (54 names).

Dan May

The viaduct connects Knaresborough with Harrogate on the Harrogate line, in North Yorkshire, England.^[8] The line was built in 1848 with the Leeds and Thirsk Railway creating a branch from their line at Starbeck railway station to go through Knaresborough and connect with the line that was being built westwards from York as part of the East and West Yorkshire Junction Railway.^[9] Just as the viaduct had been almost completed, it collapsed into the River Nidd on 11 March 1848.^[10] The resultant noise of the falling masonry was said to have lasted for five minutes. Whilst there was no official inquiry, it is believed that the collapse of the viaduct was down to a combination of bad workmanship, poor materials and excess water in the swollen river below as a result of heavy rain over a period of two months.^[11] Despite the collapse, the centre span was still in-situ and had to be demolished before work could start again on a replacement viaduct.^[12]

There has been a castle in Knaresborough for over 900 years. Over the centuries there have been significant periods of building and repair work as the castle was adapted to meet changing military requirements, fashions and historic events.

The early castle
We know very little about the castle’s origins but there may have been an Anglo-Saxon fortification in ‘Chednaresburg’. Burg is an Old English word for a defended enclosure, and could refer to a bank and ditch surrounding a settlement here.

The earliest castle was built by the Normans who recognised the superb natural defences of this rocky promontory high above the river Nidd. We find the first written evidence of a castle in Knaresborough in financial records called the Pipe Rolls dating from the reign of Henry I (1100-1135). These show that £11 was spent in 1129-1130 on strengthening the ‘King’ Works at Knaresborough’ by custodian Eustace Fitz-John.

Some years later, the castle played a part in one of the more infamous stories of the medieval period. In 1170 the Constable of Knaresborough Castle Hugh de Morville and his followers took refuge there after they had murdered Thomas Becket , Archbishop of Canterbury.

After breakfast our first port of call was Ripley where we enjoyed a stroll round the village. Although Mr C wasn’t particularly taken with it, I enjoyed the church which had some interesting historical features including the base of  a medieval cross known as ‘the weeping cross’ and which is thought to be a unique survival of a structure of this type.

The next village on our list was Pateley Bridge where we went for a brief walk along a pathway by the river Nidd to find the Pillars Past sculpture before exploring the town.

Before we left the area I suggested that we made a detour to view Coldstones Cut, a massive sculpture with viewing platforms looking over the nearby quarry and surrounding countryside.  The effort of climbing the short steep walk to get to the monument rewarded us both with a WOW moment!

We had walked up an appetite so we headed to Ripon for lunch which we enjoyed sitting on a bench in the gardens by the war memorial. After lunch we toured Ripon Cathedral which I had not been to before. Over 10,000 origami angels were suspended from the ceiling. I learned that it was a project called ‘A Wing and A Prayer’ which had been designed in the early days of lockdown to recognise the work done by keyworkers and those on the front line. I found the installation breathtaking.

Whilst there I was able to get the first stamp in my 2020 Year of Cathedrals Pilgrim Passport. At the beginning of 2020 it had planned to visit many Cathedrals this year. Maybe next year…

We weren’t ready to go back to the hotel so we detoured via Knaresborough. We walked through the town spotting the window murals known as the ‘Knaresborough windows’ ending up by the castle and war memorial which due to their elevated position treated us to spectacular views of the Victorian aqueduct and the gorge below. We returned to the car via the Bebra Gardens where I spotted a beautiful memorial bench.

Back at the hotel we had our last evening chill out before dinner in the restaurant. When we arrived at the restaurant we were told that our table wasn’t quite ready. I said that’s OK and suggested that a seat could be found for us and we would order a pre-dinner drink. There were no seats were available so with our agreement we were taken to an outside table to wait with our pre-dinner drink. Our drinks didn’t arrive a promptly as we expected and, after some time, we were seated in a back room away from the bar area and restaurant, not quite what we expected as hotel residents who had booked.

As time passed, we found ourselves alone in that area with two tables of loud non-residents. In normal circumstances we would have moved to a more ambient area but due to Covid-19 rules we stayed put rather than introducing more cleaning areas for the hotel staff. A lovely waitress that had been looking after us during our stay was a bit put out that we had been sidelined into a back room and made a point of coming to say goodbye to us before she clocked off for the evening. How special was that!

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