As you can see from the previous post Rhydspence is a little uneven in shape. The floors are also uneven and requiring adjustment to the furniture. This all adds to its charm.

The Rhydspence Inn has an interesting history, some of which the proprietor told us whilst we were chatting to him in the bar. The Inn’s website provides a detailed overview of Rhydespence over the years.

The Rhydspence was probably built to have been a hostelry. The building dates from 1380 with extensions built in the 17th and 20th centuries. We are fairly certain that the inn was built to provide comfort for travellers and pilgrims from Abbey Cwmhir to Hereford Cathedral. The land between Rhydspence and Pencesty was called ‘La Speys’ and was attached to Abbey Cwmhir, which was located about 5 miles north of Llandrindod Wells.

By comparison with similar buildings with known provenance we think that the inn was built by the Vaughn family of Hergist; of whom the best known for his infamous deeds is Thomas, The Black Vaughn. He is said to haunt Kington Church by riding his Charger down the Nave dressed in Full Armour. The house is of a ‘Hall House’ design, being two-story at one end and a large open barn area with central open fire, it had a thatched roof. Changes have taken place and it is now two stories throughout with a stone tile roof.

After the Dissolution of the Monasteries in 1590 the tenant was Thomas Watkins and it is likely that at this time the Ecclesiastical Hostelry became a stopover for the Welsh and Irish cowboys or drovers. The Rhydspence became the main assembly point for cattle on the ‘Black Ox Trail’ (the origins of Lloyds Bank) with beasts coming from Southern Ireland, South and Central Wales.

Attached to the inn were some 140 acres of land and it is probable that from this time that the inn gained the name Rhydspence. Rhyd means ‘River Crossing’, not necessarily a bridge, in this case a Ford as the inn is located near to a point where the River Wye can easily be forded, furthest East along the river and free from Toll. Spence is possibly a corruption of ‘Pence’ as the land was split into Penny, Half Penny and Farthing Fields; these were let to the drovers to rest and revitalise the Cows, Sheep and Geese before forming Herds for the Drive to the English cities and markets as far as London.

There are many stories about the Drovers and they are all probably true; because the period covered is three to four hundred years. Experiments with Shoeing Cattle, Leather Boots for Sheep and Bitumen on the feet of Geese are often mentioned. Initially a ‘Herd’ would have been about 12 cattle every day to London because only 12 cattle were required at Spitalfields. Similarly herds would be dispatched daily to Oxford, Gloucester, Worcester and the like. A small herd was not likely to be entirely lost to Highwaymen and no cash was carried. Hence the reference to Lloyds Bank as monies could be transferred along the Trail ‘On The Hoof’ with minimum risk and this was the origin of Lloyds Bank (formerly The Bank of the Black Ox but now known as the Bank of the Black Horse). In later years the herds became bigger and eventually a Railhead with Stockyards was built in Kington and the Rhydspence was no longer needed by the cattle trade.

Buskin Shirley and William Colley were the Owner/Innkeeper from 1783. A Ten Shilling Licence for The Purveying of Liquor was issued in 1830 to John Morris, Proprietor, and John Watkins, Owner.

Sarah Ann Clark, the Landlady and wife of Philip Clark was murdered in 1880. Her Ghost is said to haunt the inn; allegedly she is very friendly and only appears when there are young children staying at the inn.

The Rhydspence continued into the 1950’s as an Inn and Farm when the land was sold off and the Inn progressed from an Alehouse into a very comfortable Hotel.The Drovers are gone but Travellers are still made welcome, tales are still exchanged across the Bar. The Rhydspence now offers luxury accommodation for visitors to the area and a chance to relax in historic surroundings. There are plenty of quiet nooks for private individuals who wish to remain as such and Sarah is free to come and go as she pleases.

I have just returned from a mini break in Hay-on-Wye, where we have been to celebrate our wedding anniversary. The drive to Hay-on-Wye took us through the Shropshire and Herefordshire countryside which was particularly beautiful with the sun shining on and through the lush growth of early summer. As we approached Hay-on-Wye we encounterd a rain shower which thankfully dried up as soon as we arrived in Hay.

First port of call after arrival in Hay-on-Wye was a cafe in order to have lunch. I opted for a healthy option of tomatoes and mushrooms on toast which was delicious. After lunch we visited our bookshops of choice, although unfortunately the one I really wanted to visit had a note on the door saying closed for vacation until the end of June!!

When our car park ticket was about to run out Mr C left me at another book shop whilst he went back to put some more money in the meter. This shop turned out to be closed for lunch so I took a few photographs and hovered around for a while whilst waiting for Mr C to return. He took longer than expected and while I was waiting the owner of the shop passed by and we had a chat. I said there was no need to open up the shop and that I would come back later. When I arrived back a little later the shop had closed for the day…

I had forgotten what it is like to be in a small town in Wales!!

When we had finished in Hay-on-Wye we retraced our journey back to Rhydspence where we were staying for the night. We had passed by the Inn on our journey earlier in the day. Rhydspence is a special place in lovely setting and location. After checking in, we enjoyed our room with a view whilst we freshened up before going down to the bar for a pre dinner aperitif. Sadly the Inn no longer provides evening meals due to lack of interest so we had booked a table at the Three Tuns (in Hay-on-Wye). We had chosen well, the meal was delicious. After we had eaten we returned to the Inn and sat chatting with the proprietor (mostly about history) and towards the end of the evening he kindly gave us a drink on the house.