This art sculpture in the form of a ‘fire ball’ pays tribute to the work of archaeologist Robin Birley, who directed the Vindolanda Trust and excavations from 1970-2001, and to celebrate his incredible find, in 1992, of over 350 Roman ink on wood writing tablets (letters) on a Roman bonfire site here at Vindolanda

The Roman cohort of the 9th Batavians had been burning their commanding officer’s correspondence before they left Vindolanda in AD 105. The bonfire had been lit but abandoned after a rain shower meaning that most of the tablets were singed but otherwise survived to illuminate our understanding of life on the Roman frontier.

The fire ball was designed and created for the Vindolanda Trust by Andy Gage and depicts cursive Roman writing from the tablets. The fire ball will be ceremoniously lit every year to commemorate the discovery of what is considered ‘Britain’s Top Treasure’.*

In the background is a replica of a Roman temple.

*From a signboard next to the sculpture

This delightful bridge crosses a stream which runs through the gardens that are situated next to the museum at Vindolanda.

Vindolanda lies just to the south of the curtain wall of Hadrian’s Wall and has a very different ‘feel’ to other sites along the Wall. It lies upon the first Roman frontier in the north – The Stanegate Road and in a stunning landscape which lets your imagination really connect with its past. You will probably visit Vindolanda by driving or walking along this road to reach the fort and museum. Although first built by the Roman army before Hadrian’s Wall Vindolanda became an important construction and garrison base for the Wall, a Hadrian’s Wall fort in its own right. During this time Vindolanda was demolished and completely re-built no fewer than nine times. Each re-build, each community, leaving their own distinctive mark on the landscape and archaeology of the site.

After Hadrian’s Wall and the Roman occupation was abandoned by its imperial armies Vindolanda remained in use for over 400 years before finally becoming abandoned in the 9th century.

The excavations at Vindolanda, set in its stunning landscape, aim to unravel the mysteries of its nine Roman forts/towns and countless communities. It is a huge and complicated task which is undertaken by a dedicated team of professionals leading a veritable army of volunteers. Come and see what the archaeologists discover, the excavations rarely disappoint, and continue to provide some of the most stunning examples of Roman and early British material culture to come from nine forts and nine centuries.

The physical remains include some of the following:

• A large Pre-Hadrianic bath house and a beautifully preserved 3rd century bath house.
• Several commanding officer’s residences and barrack buildings
• A headquarters building
• 3rd and 4th century evidence of village houses and workshops, latrines, and a Roman Celtic temple to an unknown Romano Celtic God.
• The only temple to be found on display to a Roman god inside an auxiliary fort anywhere in the Roman Empire (Jupiter Dolichenus).
• A Post-Roman mausoleum and late Roman Christian church Replicas of a Roman temple and shop, a Romano-British house and replica sections of Hadrian’s Wall in turf timber and stone

Added to all of this is the stunning Museum on the site, housing the cream of the Vindolanda Trusts collection from its on-going excavations. The collection includes the famous writing tablets (Roman post cards covered in ink handwriting), the finest collection of Roman footwear from the Roman Empire, textiles, pottery, militaria and personal items from the communities that lived there.

The weather was warm and sunny so, before breakfast, I sat on the roof terrace planning places to visit during our stay ‘up north’. Breakfast was enjoyable and we had the pleasure of sitting in the garden room being warmed by the sun.

After breakfast we headed to the Roman site of Vindolanda and to the Roman Army Museum. Our journey took us through some lovely scenery and as we left the city we saw parts of Hadrian’s Wall in front of modern housing. Vindolanda is an amazing site. It really gives an insight into the size of a Roman garrison and town and how the buildings, walls and streets were arranged. There is a permanent team of archaeologists excavating the site and also volunteers excavating in other places on the site. We were able to talk to some of them and find out what they were looking for.

Next to the Roman ruins is an excellent museum showing exhibits of objects that have been found at the site. The main attraction of the museum however is the Vindolanda Writing Tablets which are on loan from the British Museum. They have been voted as ‘Britain’s top treasure’. They give an insight into the day-to-day lives of people living and working at Vindolanda near Hadrian’s Wall nearly 2000 years ago.

We had lunch in the coffee shop before leaving Vindolanda and making our way to the Roman Army Museum. This was also a good display which included a 3D film showing Hadrian’s Wall from above and what it was like to be a soldier in the Roman Army. It was then time to return to Jesmond Dene House but not before checking out Walltown Crags, a portion of Hadrian’s Wall that is next to the museum. On this occasion I chose not to walk up to the top of the hill.

One again I enjoyed the roof top terrace before we caught a cab to take us to where we had chosen to dine that evening. Whilst waiting we saw a double decker bus trying unsuccessfully to enter the hotel car park. It blocked the road until the driver managed to reverse back out into the small lane. The restaurant, Peace & Loaf was excellent; good food, good service and a good atmosphere. After the meal we found out that it had recently been voted best restaurant in the North East and that they are hoping to get Michelin stars. After this delightful experience we returned to the hotel for a night cap and to pack our bags for the next leg of our journey.