Alacantara Gorge

Our alarm was set for 6.30 to enable us to arrive for breakfast at 7.30 (as the doors opened). As we arrived we were surprised to find that the room was quickly filling up with a large number of Americans. We couldn’t help but overhear their loud conversations; they were joining a trip to Etna. We wondered if they were going to be travelling on the same trip as us.

Breakfast was a bit of a rush; we had a taxi booked at 7.55 to take us to Taormina bus station, the joining point for our trip to Etna.

The coach arrived on time and we were surprised that it was a double decker. We found a good seat on the top deck. The tour guide pointed out interesting places and features as we traveled, also sharing the history of the area. As we entered the Alcantara Gorge (unlike our previous trip to the gorge) she explained all the things that we could do in our one hour visit to the gorge.

Alacantara Gorge

We chose not to go down to the gorge, instead we set off on a walk to enjoy the parkland and viewpoints looking down on the gorge from above.

Etna

Next we continued on our journey to Etna where we had (a rather rushed) lunch before enjoying the Etna experience. Mr C decided to go further up the volcano, via cable cars and jeeps so that he could experience a walk around one of the live craters. I chose to stay lower down the mountain and enjoy a walk in the Silvestri Crater area,  which are extinct but fascinating to see.

Sylvestri Crater

I walked to the top of the crater where I encountered strong winds followed by mist and rain. It was all I could do to stay on my feet. As I walked down off the crater the rain had stopped and the mist had lifted.

Etna

I considered walking another nearby route to see the effects of  lava flow. Looking up at the walkway the mist came down and completely obliterated the area, a noticed a lone figure at the top of the hill disappearing into the fog. I decided that with a deadline to meet, walking up alone was not a good idea. As I made my way back towards the cafes and souvenir shops I could hardly see where I was walking.

Etna

By the time I got back to the cafes the rain had stopped and the fog had lifted. I purchased a book on Etna and had a cappacino in one of the cafes. As I was leaving Mr C popped into view, the cable car had arrived sooner than expected.

Honey Farm

Driving back from Etna we had a brief (not advertised) stop at a honey farm where we were able to taste mini samples of their produce. To my palate the honey was not as good as the honey we got from Chain Bridge Honey farm on our frequent visits to Northumberland.

Back at the hotel we chilled out before dining in Casa Nicolodi restaurant. We sat in a rooftop garden area with rustic walls, leafy trees, lemons and pomegranates. The food was lovely and the service so attentive that we felt we had been welcomed into a family home. On this occasion I chose sea bass coated in almonds with fennel and almond salad followed by Sicilian citrus mouse. Just as we were finishing our wine the heavens opened and everyone dashed inside,  seating themselves at the available indoor tables. The hosts were duly attentive in making sure that everyone was comfortably relocated.

22 Comments CherryPie on Nov 2nd 2019

French Balcony View

As on the previous day I enjoyed chilling (with a book) out on the French balcony in the early morning sunshine whilst Mr C snoozed for a while. Our plan for the day was to visit the Alacantara Gorge on the CityBySee bus but, once again, the trip set off at lunch time leaving the morning free.

A New Friend

Photo taken by Mr C

As we were leaving the hotel to visit the municipal gardens, the hotel’s  resident dog took a fancy to me. He came running past Mr C and jumped up at me with a waggy tail, putting his paws on my legs. At one point the gorgeous dog put his paws on my hands.

Municiple Gardens

After this delightful encounter we revisited the municipal gardens to enjoy a relaxing and tranquil morning. Shortly after we arrived Mr C realised that he had left his hat in the hotel room. While he walked back to the hotel  to retrieve his hat, I stayed in the gardens to explore them at my leisure. I enjoyed my slow paced walk around the garden, seeing things that I had missed on our previous visit.

Isola Bella from above

When Mr C returned, hat in hand, we left the gardens and headed in the direction of the bus station. Our walk took us past what was described on our previous days tour as a Romantic Ruin and also the Necropolis, which is the remains of an old Byzantine cemetery, before finding a viewing platform looking out over the Isolla Bella bay.

A Cafe with a View

Next to the viewing platform there was a convenient cafe, L’Oblio, it was a cafe with a view. As we were being served with drinks before our food order of aranchini arrived, the waiter somehow managed to unbalance the drinks on the tray causing mine, a fresh orange drink to be spilt. Luckily he missed me.

Alacantara Gorge

After enjoying lunch and the views, it was time to walk the short distance to the bus station to board the bus to the Alcantara Gorge. We were treated to amazing views and driven along many narrow almost un-navigable streets whilst listening to the interesting commentary of the various things we were seeing. The Gorge itself was beautiful and, on this brief trip, the focus was using the lift to get down to the gorge and the free wine tasting available in the shop area.

We descended to the gorge but due to time constraints we were unable to explore much more than that. We had just enough time to see the 3D video experience and to find out that the free wine tasting was only mini morsels of food and liquors. The tasting session was rushed and designed to lure tourists into buying the local produce. After the previous days experience we made sure we were back at the bus in plenty of time.

Etna Sunset

Back in Taormina, we stopped for refreshments in a cafe bar before indulging in an Italian ice cream. In the hotel I had a relaxing soak in the bath which was briefly interrupted by Mr C providing me with an unexpected glass of Prosecco!

Room Service

Shortly after this  ‘room service’ provided us with biscuits after two days absence…

We dined in Le Quattro Fontane where the food and service were excellent. I chose seabass, it was served in a butterfly style and was delicious. I followed this with Cassata; all I can say is WOW!

We made our way back to the hotel for an early night to be ready for an early morning start for our visit to Etna.

11 Comments CherryPie on Oct 31st 2019

Taormina

I woke up before the alarm went off, got washed and dressed before sitting on the French patio with a magazine watching Etna puffing smoky artwork into the sky. When Mr C was washed and dressed we had breakfast before buying tickets for the CityBySee open top bus. The next scheduled bus to Sovoca, our choice of destination wasn’t due to depart until 12.40 giving us a couple of hours to kill.

Rather than hop on the bus to go somewhere else first we chose the more leisurely option of walking in Taormina. We sat in Piazza IX Aprile square overlooking Mount Etna and the bay below. We then ordered a cappuccino in a small cafe overlooking the Church of Sant Caterina D’alessandria. The service was rather neglectful with both the menu and bill arriving late. We wished we had opted to sit in the cafe next door where we had received excellent service. Whilst we were enjoying our cappuccino, we watched wedding guests, the bride groom and lastly the bride arriving at the church.

Capuchin Convent & Catacombs

By now it was time to return to the bus station where we found the organising of people onto their correct buses was a bit chaotic. We were given earpieces so that we could listen to the commentary before setting off towards Savoca. Although it was an open top bus the plastic roof was fitted because rain was forecast later in the day. The sides were still open causing my hair to blow all over the place and some people to put their hoods up.

Once in Savoca, we followed signs towards a cafe only to find that it was closed. It was next to the Capuchin Convent and Catacombs where mummified bodies of rich and famous people from Savoca were on display in its crypt.

Church of San Nicolo

After that sobering sight we went in search of lunch. Mr C didn’t like the look of the first cafe so headed off unsuccessfully in search of another one. Luckily, I had seen a small bread shop where I thought we might be able to get a tasty  sandwich. We retraced our steps there and went in. We were offered some ricotta cheese to taste and then different bread options were brought out for us to choose from. The bread was drizzled in oil before the fillings of our choice were added, in my case the very tasty cheese. We enjoyed eating them part way up the hill that led up to San Nicolo’s Church. A sweet grey cat tried to coax some food off us.

Chiesa Madre

Ways of the Cross

Comfortably replete, we visited the church before continuing up the hill to visit the Chiesa Madre, perched on a narrow ridge. Stepping inside we found the atmosphere to be lovely and peaceful. We didn’t have time to walk up the nearby steps  to to the top of Mount Calvary with the ways of the cross carved into the rock along the pathway.

Savoca

We returned to the beginning of our walk via a different pathway before retracing our steps so that we could visit the Church of  San Michelle. This church although partially repaired is in a state of decay with a crowdfunding initiative in place to save the baroque interiors and fine wall murals.

Savoca

By now time it had started to rain so we headed back towards the only open cafe for a warm drink and waited for the bus to arrive for our return journey. As we sat waiting the rain got heavier. The last bus of the day arrived and my suspicions as we got off the bus earlier were confirmed. There would be more people wanting to get on the bus than there were seats. A tour where you can get off the bus and stay longer waiting for a later bus only works if the last bus is not full on arrival.

I kept my eye on the bus and after the new arrivals left the bus a couple got on. Mr C was inclined to linger in the cafe but I was insistent that we left and got on the bus. As we climbed on board the driver was rolling down the polythene sheets at the side of the bus to protect the bus and occupants from the rain. He then proceeded to wipe up the water from the seats. Chaos ensued, there were more people than seats. My worry was not about getting a seat, but if there were too many people would people get left behind… Hence my insistence to get on the bus early. Thankfully, after the bus driver counted how many people were on the bus and checked that everyone had a ticket nobody had to leave the bus. Although he did leave a few minutes early ;-)

Back at the hotel I chilled out with a Prosecco from the minibar before we dined in the Cuti lu Dissi restaurant. Due to the rain we booked this restaurant which was just a few steps away from the hotel. The quality of the food was good, although my choice of fish dish was not to my palate; it was topped with a strong flavoured cheese that overpowered the delicacy of the fish. The service left a lot to be desired, once again we were left unattended and had to go hunting for someone when we arrived, also to order dessert and again for the bill at the end of the evening.

When we arrived back at the hotel for a nightcap, sadly, we found that the usual bartender was not in attendance, it was his day off so we were served by the pool bartender. As we were sitting on the hotel terrace, once again (as we did by the hotel pool the previous day) we felt that we were a nuisance and shouldn’t be there. The tables around us were cleared and the lights turned off and taken away, leaving just ours with its solo gleam. However the seat cushions were left on all the chairs which cannot be said for a later evening during our stay…

5 Comments CherryPie on Oct 30th 2019

Taormina-Giordani station

We arrived in the breakfast room earlier than the previous day and to our relief it was a lot less chaotic. It being the weekend, we indulged in a glass of Prosecco with our breakfast. In my case I paired it with fruit; sadly strawberries were not on the menu.

Suitably replete, we walked to the main bus station in order to catch a bus to Taormina-Giordani station to check out the train availability to Syracuse, where we planned to visit later in the week. We also inquired if there was a scheduled bus to Syracuse and were told that there were no scheduled buses there but later in the week we found that this advice was incorrect!

Taormina-Giordani station

Taormina-Giordani station

Unfortunately we found that the the train station ticket office was closed and we were unable to inquire about about our proposed journey. There were no physical train timetables available to peruse at our leisure so Mr C photographed the wall-displayed timetable to allow him to figure it out at his leisure. Our journey was not wasted, the station with its fine ceiling and architecture was well worth a visit.

After our brief but unproductive visit we hopped back on a bus to Taormina where we enjoyed a mid morning cappuccino in a cafe opposite the tourist information office where we hoped to get advice about a visit to Syracuse by public transport. Unfortunately it was shut; we had forgotten that it was Sunday.

The Odeon

We investigated some of the Taormina alleyways and found ‘The Odeon’, a small Roman Theatre nestling between more modern buildings, we stopped off for lunch in a cafe where, on a previous day, we had enjoyed a refreshing drink overlooking Piazza Duomo. On this occasion I chose to indulge in a strawberry pancake which was delicious.

Hotel Excelsior Palace

We headed back to the hotel where we intended to linger over a bottle of Prosecco by the hotel pool, chilling out in the afternoon sunshine. Our requirement seemed to have been lost in translation so we ended up with a couple of glasses. The bar attendant seemed to be rushing us…

Rosso De Vino

Rosso De Vino

Later we dined in  Rosso De Vino (mentioned in my previous p0st). The food, staff, service and venue were wonderful. We were provided with the menu and shortly afterwards a member of staff arrived to explain the specials board and the catch of the day platter.

Rosso De Vino

The platter was a dish of whole fish presented for us to choose from. The waitress advised that all the fish could be cooked to our exact requirements using fresh, authentic Sicilian ingredients. She further advised us that we could choose a fish to be cooked in two different ways for sharing. Mr C chose the ‘Big Eye’ fish which is local to the area and we opted for two different cooking options (pistachio coated and Sicilian style with olives and caper) so that we could enjoy different tastes of Taormina fish cuisine.

Rosso De Vino

Rosso De Vino

Mr C added a starter of dish of Carpaccio fish which we shared and both of our dessert options were delicious :-)

Rosso De Vino

Rosso De Vino

Whilst we were dining Mr C decided against going on his planned visit to Syracuse. The journey would take up to much time (four hours return journey) and would not be relaxing. We had a plan B…

6 Comments CherryPie on Oct 28th 2019

Great things are done when men and mountains meet.

William Blake

Mount Etna

12 Comments CherryPie on Oct 27th 2019

Early Snow

We arrived at breakfast a little later than on the previous days and found the room to be full and chaotic. Some food items were running out, including bread, and we  had to wait for a table to be laid. After breakfast we walked to the bus stop near to the Porta Messina to purchase a bus ticket to Castelmola. The bus wasn’t due for another hour so we went to one of the cafe bars and ordered a cappuccino.

The Road to Castelmola

The drive up to the castle was reminiscent of the hairpin bends we experienced on a journey from Ravello to Amalfi (and back) a couple of years ago. The journey is three miles and I had considered walking up but, as Mr C had a large blister, we chose the easier option. I was glad that we did because the road wasn’t really suitable for walking being very narrow and busy. Stepping off the bus in Castelmola was a big contrast from the bustle of Taormina. Castelmola was quiet and quaint with stunning views.

Chiesa di San Nicolo di Bari

We wandered around the narrow streets and visited Chiesa di San Nicolo di Bari where I lingered for a while.

Arancini

We had lunch in Per de Chat where we enjoyed views of the blue sea far below us. The owner was warm and welcoming and told us to sit and relax and stay as long as we wanted. He recommended a dish of locally prepared Arancini, one beef and tomato and one spinach and ricotta split in half for sharing. We took him up on his offer and ordered a wine for me and a beer for Mr C. The Arancini were delicious.

Castello di Castelmola

We then walked up to the ruins of Castello di Castelmola. The views were even more spectacular from this elevated position and Etna seemed closer than ever.

Castelmola

We descended back to the square and caught the next bus back to Taormina where we called in at cafe for a refreshing citrus drink. There was an unusual gadget on the table with buttons with options to order, pay bill and cancel. We pressed the appropriate button and a waiter appeared from a nearby shop to take our order.

Taormina Sunset

Back in the hotel we chilled out before heading out dine in Rosso Di Vino. The restaurant was full and they could only offer a table on a balcony which didn’t look very comfortable. As we had a plan B I asked if we could book a table for the next evening instead. Table booked we headed around the corner to Ristorante Al Duomo who were able to accommodate us.

Piazza del Duomo

We were placed at an outside table overlooking Piazza del Duomo. The food and atmosphere were excellent and I was reluctant to move but all to soon it was time to head back to our hotel for the night.

8 Comments CherryPie on Oct 25th 2019

Morning View

This was the third day in a row that we had to plan breakfast around a meeting with the tour rep. We decided to go in for breakfast and Mr C slipped out to pay for the trips. In the end he only paid for the Etna trip as there was still doubt surrounding the Aeolian Islands trip.

Isola Bella

After the meeting and breakfast, we headed into town and caught the cable car down to Isola Bella Bay where we took our life in our hands walking along the narrow roads, dodging the cars. Our walk was interrupted by a sprinkling of rain so we took the cable car back to Taormina where we had lunch overlooking the Cathedral square.

Sicilian Cart

Palazzo Dei Duchi Di Santo Stefano

We visited the Sicilian Cart Museum then briefly returned to the hotel before visiting Palazzo Dei Duchi Di Santo Stefano which is a Norman structure situated near to Porta Catania. The interior of the building is used by the G. Mazulla foundation. The works of this artist are displayed in the palace and the gardens.

Afternoon Refreshments

We next enjoyed a refreshing drink overlooking Piazza Duomo, soaking up the atmosphere in the Italian sunshine. Some things just have to be done.

Sunset over Etna

Whilst we were back at the hotel getting ready for our evening meal the wind got up and we heard a loud crash. Initially we thought something had blown over until it dawned on us that it sounded like a motor accident; several roads are just below the hotel. I looked out of the window and saw people looking over the wall and photographing/videoing the scene below, which I found upsetting. However once again I was able to watch the sunset over Etna.

Moonrise over Etna

Later, as we walked to Trattoria Tiramiso Taormina for dinner, we saw the remains of the accident which was still being attended by the emergency services. I was left hoping that no one was seriously hurt. Whilst dining we got chatting to two Americans who were sharing their holiday experiences with us. Also whilst we were dining the tour rep texted to advise that despite the bad weather the Aeolian Islands trip would go ahead, but by now we had gone off the idea and didn’t want another interrupted breakfast…

14 Comments CherryPie on Oct 23rd 2019

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