Hidden Heritage Trail

We arrived at breakfast to find that we had missed the rush and as a bonus we were seated in a quiet area well away from the buffet table.

Our destination for the day was Hartlepool, but before setting off we took a stroll along the river starting from a point next to our hotel. I found that the pathway is part of the Hidden Heritage Trail which passed by the Durham Cow Sculpture to represent the legend of a roaming cow leading monks to the final resting place of St Cuthbert, Durham Cathedral. Retracing my steps back towards Durham, I was treated to lovely views of Durham landmarks.

Great War Memorial

Our first port of call at Hartlepool was the Heugh Battery Museum, the site of the only First World War Battlefield in Britain. Before visiting the museum we took a stroll to the seafront and found a plaque marking the place where the first shell from a German Battle cruiser landed in December 1914 and also commemorating the first soldier killed on British soil by enemy action during the Great War 1914-18.

Heugh Battery

The museum (although currently not fully open)  tells the story of the Bombardment of the Hartlepools, which took place on Wednesday 16th December 1914, when the guns of the battery were engaged in ship-to-shore combat with the German navy.

Hartlepool

After our visit to the museum, we followed the Hartlepool Headland Trail from a leaflet that I had picked up at the museum. The walk was interesting and engaging but some areas along the trail are a little grim. We had hoped to visit St Hilda’s Church but our morning adventures had taken up a lot of time so we missed it out and drove to our planned major destination for the day; The National Museum of the Royal Navy, Hartlepool where HMS Trincomalee is showcased within a recreated Historic Dockyard.

HMS Trincomalee

We had lunch, in my case Apple Shortcake, and took a tour around the Historic Dockyard before embarking on HMS Trincomalee.

Back at the hotel, after a detour through the village of Hart, we chilled out before dining in the Marco Pierre White restaurant in the hotel across the road from the one we were staying in.

8 Comments CherryPie on Oct 1st 2021

Raby Castle

After breakfast, which was was busier but less chaotic than the previous day, we drove to Raby Castle. As the weather was fair when we arrived we chose to visit the gardens and grounds. We started with the walled garden then walked around the lower lake taking in views of the castle.

Raby Castle

When we arrived at the castle courtyard we walked around the castle perimeter to get an appreciation of it before we went inside the castle. The castle is stunning and rich with history which the knowledgeable room guides were happy to share with us as we made our way around.

Staindrop Church

We had quiche for lunch in the café before we left to visit Staindrop and the Church of St Mary where significant (historical) members of the Neville family, that once owned Raby Castle, have their tombs. There was still time to spare so we decided to visit Brancepath Church as we journeyed back to Durham. We parked just outside the driveway to the church which took us past the castle where there was a sign outside saying queue here for the 4pm tour.

Brancepath Church

I found the church amazing. It looked old from the outside and modern, light and airy from within. It had a special feel to it and I would have liked to linger longer but Mr C had his eye on the castle tour.

Brancepath Castle

When we arrived at the tour joining point we found that it was for pre-booked tickets  as part of the Heritage Open Days scheme. We were lucky, two people had dropped out and we were able to join the tour that was guided by the husband of the current owner. He told us of the history of the castle and the owners. The final room that he showed us was the chapel which he advised was consecrated and used by the village when the Church had been gutted due to a fire over twenty years ago. This explains the incongruity of the Parish Church’s interior and exterior appearance.

Eleven 'O' One

By the time the tour had finished it was nearly 6pm and we had not been able to book an evening meal in Durham so we opted for plan B. We drove to Seaham in search of fish and chips, eventually finding them in Gills, opposite the Eleven ‘O’ One, Tommy memorial sculpture. The food was cooked to order, we dined in, eating out of a box. The Haddock that I chose melted in my mouth.

After our long day out we returned to our hotel to chill with a cup of tea in our newly acquired mugs before venturing out to the Swan for a nightcap.

8 Comments CherryPie on Sep 30th 2021

Durham>

We arrived at breakfast to find that it was a self service buffet arrangement. The choice was extensive although the experience wasn’t entirely pleasant. Some guests picked up bread then changed their mind and put it back in the stack. Others were crowding around the toast machine and coughing and sneezing whilst waiting for the toast to cook. Yuk!!

After breakfast we walked into Durham to visit the Cathedral and on the way visited a board game shop called ‘Meeple Games’. We intended to buy a game but couldn’t make up our mind so decided to return later when we had done a bit of research.

Palace Green

When we arrived at Palace Green we visited the Heritage Centre with its archeological display and small exhibition about the Durham Light Infantry.

St Mary the Less

We arrived at the Cathedral to find that it was currently closed to visitors due to a service taking place so we walked to the nearby Church of St Mary the Less, so named because the much larger Cathedral is also dedicated to St Mary. Sadly this too was shut with no indication of when it might be open.

River Wear

With time to spare we set off on a river walk crossing over both the Prebends’ and Framwellgate bridges before returning to the Cathedral for lunch in the Undercroft Restaurant.

Durham Cathedral

We explored the Cathedral using the short guide pamphlet that we were given on arrival. This pointed out the most significant features including St Cuthberts Shrine and Venerable Bede’s tomb. I was pleasantly surprised to find that photography, with a few perfectly reasonable caveats, was now allowed and even encouraged. At the time of our visit, the Galilee Chapel was hosting an art display, LIGHT by Chris Lavine. This bathed the Chapel in soft blue ripples of light accompanied by gentle music.

Everdell

Over lunch we did our board game research so we returned to the board game shop and bought Everdell. Next, we purchased a couple of cheap mugs and spoons for the hotel room so that we didn’t have to use paper cups. After the poor bar experience of the previous day we also bought some sherry and glasses so that we could enjoy a pre dinner drink in our room as we got ready to go out for our evening meal.

We dined in Akarsu Turkish Restaurant & Grill. Our table was a little bit too close to bar waiting area but the food was delicious. After dinner we visited the Swan & Three Cygnets which is a short distance from the hotel and which we found to be more welcoming and relaxing than the hotel bar.

10 Comments CherryPie on Sep 28th 2021

Hexham Gaol

After breakfast we checked out of the Vermont and, in a last minute change of plan, visited Hexham on the way to our new destination, Durham. First port of call was Hexham Gaol which is built with stone from the nearby Roman Corbridge site and bills itself as the earliest purpose-built prison in England.

The Moot Hall - Hexham

Afterwards we walked around the town calling in at a couple of book shops where Mr C hoped to find a book on the Battle of Hexham, before having lunch in the Refectory Cafe at Hexham Abbey. We both chose a toasted cheese scone with chutney which was delicious, although messy due to melting butter.

Angel Wings - Hexham Abbey

After lunch we visited the Abbey which currently has an installation called ‘Angel Wings’ that was inspired by the 2020 ‘Wing and a Prayer’ installation at Ripon Cathedral. The Angels are displayed at a height of 45 ft in the chancel and in other places around the building. They are personal dedications and commemorations from people who were affected by the 2020/21 pandemic.

Tour of Britain

As we left Hexham, we noticed that the road was being cordoned off and there was a police presence. We soon realised that this was due to a stage of the Tour of Britain cycle race passing by that afternoon. A bit further down the road we were redirected by a police motorcyclist as our planned route had also been temporarily blocked. We realsised this was a ‘not to be missed’ opportunity so did a U-turn and parked at the side of the road near to where the cyclists would pass and waited for them to arrive.  When the last of the cyclists had gone by we continued our journey following the race until eventually it peeled off in a different direction.

Tour of Britain Tribute

This explained a lovely bicycle display that I had admired whilst walking around Hexham.

The Wenlock Suite

Once at Durham we checked in where there was a bit of a saga with authorising the credit card. When this had been resolved we were directed to a lovely room on the ground floor, named The Wenlock Suite. We were also informed that the room would be serviced every three days and that if we needed tea or coffee to ask at reception. We were rather dismayed to find only paper cups!

We unpacked our bags and chilled out for a while before visiting the hotel bar for a pre dinner drink. They had run out of our first choice of beverage so we had to go for plan B. Dinner was in a restaurant called The Cellar Door. We managed to walk down the wrong set of very steep outdoor steps only to be redirected to the correct entry to the restaurant, a small doorway where we were led down just as many steps into the cellar. I chose chicken supreme which was delicious.

The Market Square

Durham at Night

After dinner we had a stroll around the square to the sounds of a busker singing ‘I only have eyes for you’.   Someone in the square decided to join in with him which rather drowned out his lovely singing voice.

We returned to the hotel for a nightcap and were told by the bar staff that the bar was closing in 10 minutes. It was 10.20 and the bar shouldn’t close until 11pm. We made our order and 15 minutes later we were told it was last orders if we would like anything else to which we said no thankyou.

A little while later, just before 11pm another couple arrived and sat down at the bar and ordered drinks only to be told the bar had shut. The produced an exclamation of ‘Really’ to which the reply was ‘well we are in 2.5 minutes time’. They were promptly served causing another larger group of people to purchase another round of drinks. Shortly after this the bar tender tried to take Mr C’s glass away before he had finished his drink!

2 Comments CherryPie on Sep 27th 2021

St Nicholas Cathedral

For breakfast I chose the continental option which was delicious. Afterwards, we returned to the Cathedral to appreciate some of the things that I had learned about in the guidebook I purchased the previous day. Some of the Cathedral’s features were now temporarily covered over for a student graduation event. It was lucky that we had visited the day before because I would have missed out on the new guidebook and getting my pilgrim passport stamped.

Alnwick Castle

We drove to Alnwick. Mr C wanted to visit the castle because of current interest in the Wars of the Roses. Despite having to book a time slot, the castle seemed a lot busier that I remembered it on previous visits. Visitors were asked to keep a respectable distance from others but many people ignored this. One woman was herding me along, almost in my pocket. I stepped to one side to let her go in front. She muttered an apology and someone else got herded along.

Alnwick Castle

Mr C visited the military museum in one of the castle’s turrets. I chose to wait outside soaking up the rays. The castle shop turned out to be disappointing and Mr C didn’t find any books on his subject. We had hoped to have lunch in the café but it was shut due to staff shortages. The only food outlet at the castle was a concession that sold Greek kebabs. The teashop next to Alnwick Garden was limited to mostly cake, the main café being inside the garden which we had decided not to visit. We had a quick look around the shop before heading into town for lunch. We found a takeaway sandwich bar where I chose a chicken and stuffing roll, which when it arrived was enormous. I enjoyed the delicious sandwich sitting on a bench next to the market square.

St Lawrence Church Walkworth

By the time we had finished our lunch it was too late to visit Cragside (as I had hoped) for its formal garden and pleasure drive. Instead we headed off along the ‘coastal route’, eventually stopping at Warkworth where we found a teashop that had a piece of raspberry Bakewell tart with my name on it. Before leaving Warkworth, we visited St Lawrence Church and explored its treasures.

The Castle, Newcastle

The carparking area around the hotel was in utter chaos when we arrived. Mr C grabbed the last pay and display space rather than struggle to see if a space could be found on the hotel carpark. After we had parked we learned that the reason for the chaos was due to some students having their graduation celebration in one of the hotel’s function rooms.

Safely back in the room, we freshened up before dining in The French Quarter, Arch 6, the arch being one of the arches under the railway viaduct. We found that the French cuisine was served in a Spanish Tapas style and whilst we perused the menu we enjoyed a glass of bubbly Prosecco.

2 Comments CherryPie on Sep 26th 2021

The Tyne Bridge

The Vermont breakfast was up to its usual standard.  We had become accustomed during our recent hotel stays to table service being the only option due to Covid safety issues but unexpectedly the usual buffet service was on offer.   However, a time slot needed to be booked in advance to restrict the flow of people in the breakfast room. My choice of breakfast was scrambled eggs on toast which was one of the items that is cooked to order.

St Nicholas Cathedral

After breakfast we visited St Nicholas Cathedral and were surprised to see it had changed a lot since our previous visits. The space had been opened up to let in more light. Later, I found out from the latest guidebook that this was due to a project to make the Cathedral more open and accessible. Part of the project involved removing the Victorian pews and tiles which revealed secrets beneath.  The transformation is amazing. Whilst in the Cathedral I got my Pilgrimage Passport stamped with both a stamp and sticker, the latter being placed carefully to cover the bleed from a stamp on the reverse page. We had hoped to visit the Catholic Cathedral and bookshop but on arrival we found that it was closed on Wednesdays. So we returned to St Nicholas Cathedral tea shop for elevenses before driving to Jesmond Dene.

Jesmond Dene

We had lovely walk around the parkland at Jesmond Dene taking in some of the historical features along the way. After our walk we shared a tuna baguette from the cafe, sitting outside in the sunshine until it was time to meet JD. On our way to his house we had a mini adventure. All the local carparks required coins to pay rather than a card payment so Mr C stopped off to visit a bank which he found was closed on Wednesdays. He found a nearby bank that was open. The cashier was bemused by his request for coins; “We don’t hold coins,”

Untitled

After this diversion we  continued on our journey. We had a lovely afternoon chatting with JD and came away with a generous gift of paintings including one that Mr C had liked on two of our previous visits (the photo does not do the painting justice).

Back at the hotel, with the help of the concierge, we were able to get a space on the hotel carpark. When we entered our room, we were pleased to find that it had been serviced despite being told that it would not be when we checked in.

Dinner was in Restaurant 21. The food was a little slow to arrive due to the restaurant being unexpectedly (for them) busy. The service and food were excellent.

The Sage at Night

We walked back to the hotel along the quayside. I was amused to find that the Sage Gateshead building that appears as a giant slug by day had resembed a sailing ship at night, the structure almost invisible with the insides glowing.

6 Comments CherryPie on Sep 23rd 2021

hollies Garden Centre

We surprised ourselves by being ready to set off on our holiday adventure early. The Satnav took us on a delightful route through Hodnet, Whitchurch and Tarporley. Just before we joined the motorway south of Warrington, we stopped off at Hollies Garden Centre in Little Budworth, Cheshire for a late breakfast. I chose a danish pastry and a refreshing cup of tea. The wasps were out in force so I had to keep my pastry half wrapped in its bag to keep them at bay.

Kirkby Lonsdale

Our lunch stop was Kirkby Lonsdale. After struggling to park we found a sandwich bar where I chose chicken salad and watched the chicken being freshly sliced. Whilst the sandwiches were being made we chatted to the lady serving us. She mentioned that she often had customers who were cycling from Lands End to John o’ Groats. We ate our sandwiches sitting under the town’s market cross and enjoying views of the distant hills.

Mainsgill Farm

After lunch we rejoined the M6 before travelling through Kirkby Stephen where we realised that we had mixed our Kirkbys up (again) and this was where we had intended to stop for lunch. Our journey took us past Brough towards Scotch Corner and  Mainsgill Farm Shop where we stopped for a cup of tea. It has changed a lot since our previous visit a few years ago so we took the opportunity to browse around the shop. I enjoyed seeing the resident camels, although I still miss Kevin who was such a character, often wandering over to customers and posing for photos.

The Tyne Bridge

Later, we arrived at the Vermont to find that the hotel carpark was full and we had to pay to park the car overnight. After checking in and unloading the car we headed into Newcastle. Whilst in town we spent some time in Waterstones both ending up with a purchase, mine being a cookbook ‘Simply Raymond’ which I had had my eye on for some time.

Back at the hotel we freshened up before dining in the hotel restaurant. We found that the menu had become more down market than on our previous stays, although when the food (Haddock and Chips for me) arrived it was both excellent and delicious. We had a nightcap in the hotel bar before retiring for the evening.

8 Comments CherryPie on Sep 21st 2021

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