Malta National Aquarium

After breakfast we set off on another bus adventure, this time to St Paul’s Bay to visit Malta’s National Aquarium. During our hour-long journey, we saw many different styles of architecture, landscapes and neighbourhoods.

The aquarium is split up into different zones that feature both marine life and the history and hidden treasures of Malta. There is also a zone that covers reptiles and amphibia. The aquarium is excellent and we saw several types of fish that were unfamiliar to us.

St Paul's Bay

We had lunch in La Nave bistro (part of the aquarium complex) overlooking St Paul’s Bay and the islands of St. Paul, Comino and Gozo. Even though it was rather windy, we chose to sit outside to with our choice of cake options so that we could enjoy the views. I noticed another lady coming outside and taking a seat only to retreat inside a few minutes later because of the wind. After she had gone back inside, I noticed that, in her haste to get inside, she had left her rucksack hanging on a chair outside. I went inside to tell her that she had left her bag behind.

St Paul's Bay

Back in Valletta we decided to have a cuppa in the room overlooking the harbour rather than going to a café in the city.

Later, we had a pre-dinner drink in the hotel bar before walking into Valletta for our last evening meal in Malta where we dined in La Pira. I chose a stuffed fresh pasta dish instead of my usual fish choice. The food was delicious and the service was laid back but attentive.

View from the top of the steps

On our way back to the hotel, we stopped for a drink in a bar overlooking St John’s Co Cathedral. In comparison to previous days, we found it rather chilly because of the breeze so we returned to the hotel for one last drink before our journey home.

4 Comments CherryPie on Nov 29th 2023

Zurrieq

It was a choice between visiting the fishing village of Marsaxlokk or the Hagar Qim temple complex.

We checked the bus time tables and found that the bus to Marsaxlokk would arrive earliest so we decided that we would go there for the day. Then Mr C noticed a bus that was heading to the temples which caused him to change his mind. It was only when we were on our way that he realised the journey wasn’t direct and we would have to change.

We changed at Zurrieq, a quaint Moorish town with picturesque narrow streets. There were lots of buses returning to Valletta but we had to wait for half an hour one that went to the temples.

Before entering the temple complex, we had a traditional Maltese tuna ftira. The sandwich was so large we shared it between us.

Hagar Qim

The Hagar Qim complex consists of a main temple and three additional megalithic structures beside it. The main temple was built between 3600 and 3200 BC but other structures on the site are even older. Hagar Qim is quite different to other megalithic sites that I have seen.

Hagar Qim Nature Walk

Hagar Qim Nature Walk

We viewed one temple then, instead of taking the direct route to the second temple, we took the route of the nature walk. The ground was rugged and rough under our feet. Thankfully I had put my walking shoes on but, even so, when Mr C decided to walk along the cliff edge I headed uphill, keeping to the pathway.

Hagar Qim

Arriving at the second temple we found it to be a lot smaller in footprint than the first one. Like megalithic structures elsewhere, there are sun and moon alignments to the solstice and equinox. There is even a theory that one of the stones has markings that align it to the Pleiades constellation.

Both temples have a canvas canopy over them to protect them from the harsh elements that would erode the soft limestone rock.

Back at the bus stop we found out that, counter-intuitively, we needed to catch the bus back to Valletta on the same side of the road as we had alighted. We waited for quite some time (other people joining us) and no bus appeared in either direction. After a while we suspected that one of the scheduled buses had been cancelled and we were now waiting for the next one which arrived eventually.

The Grand Hotel Excelsior

Back in Valletta, we decided to relax with a cup of the tea on our balcony before setting off for our evening meal. We settled on the restaurant That’s Amore where we didn’t have the best of experiences. They were extremely slow to take our order and when the bottle of wine arrived the glasses were filled unevenly. Mr C’s empty plate was taken away whilst I was still eating and he was advised that he could order desserts and coffee later! My plate was left in front of me for a long time after I had finished eating. The lovely local rose wine we had chosen was the saving grace of the experience.

Back at the hotel, the bar staff tried to fob me off with a small bottle of inferior wine because they had run out of the normal wine and needed to go to the cellar for some more. I sent it back to be replaced with the higher quality wine that I had ordered on other occasions.

2 Comments CherryPie on Nov 28th 2023

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Overnight I came out with a cold which I am sure is why I was feeling out of sorts the previous day. Thankfully my runny nose had settled down before breakfast.

We caught a bus to Rabat where we visited the Wignacourt Museum which is linked to St Paul’s Grotto, the cradle of Christianity in Malta. The underground level of the museum consists of a labyrinth of Punic, Roman and Christian Hypogea as well as WWII shelters. It was a fascinating experience.

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When we had finished our visit to the museum it was time for lunch, which we had in the nearby Grotto Tavern. Amongst other things on the menu there was a ‘snack box’ heading. I opted for the cheese snack box which turned out to be cheese on toasted ciabatta, served with a sauce and in a cardboard box. Also, on offer was freshly made lemonade; how could I resist?

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After lunch we had hoped to visit the Basilica of St Paul but it looked closed and under refurbishment so we walked the short distance to Mdina. Mdina’s city walls are an impressive site to see.

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Once inside the walls, we visited St Paul’s Cathedral and museum then wandered around the narrow streets within the city walls.

We retraced our steps back to the bus station in Rabat to catch a bus back to Valletta where we enjoyed a cup of tea on our balcony over looking the small harbour in front of our window.

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We dined in Ta’ Nadia. The portion size was enormous which left me overfaced by my meal choice. We had a nightcap in our usual bar, which was open again, before returning to our hotel to retire for the evening.

6 Comments CherryPie on Nov 26th 2023

Valletta War Memorial

Photo taken by Mr C

For some reason I was feeling out of sorts when I woke up, possibly because I could feel the beginnings of the lurgy coming on. We were a little late for breakfast but thankfully there was only a small queue.

After breakfast we had planned to catch the ferry to Birgu but the plan was flexed and we detoured to the war memorial first rather than on the way back from Birgu as we had planned. The pathways that led to the memorial were all blocked off. We had quite a tricky time getting to the war memorial and so it took us longer than expected. Some pathways were closed and the roads around it were very busy.

After photographing the memorial, we walked to the lift that would take us down to the ferry. Unfortunately, the extra time it had taken to get to the memorial meant that we had just missed the ferry and had to wait for it to come back.

Birgu Harbour

Photo taken by Mr C

Eventually in Birgu, we took a few photos of the harbour before sitting on a bench for a few moments to look at a map so we could get our bearings. It was now time for a refreshing drink before walking into town. We didn’t opt for the nearest café and settled for a shady arcaded place a short distance down the street.

Then we headed into town checking a signboard before choosing to visit the Inquisitors Palace first. As we neared the palace, I saw a photo opportunity and realised my camera was missing. I remembered I had put it next to me on the bench when we sat to briefly peruse the map. I always check I have left nothing behind when I move on from a place but for some reason, I didn’t see the camara, maybe it had fallen on the floor underneath the bench. I will never know…

Mr C retraced our steps checking all the cafes and also the bench area where we briefly sat. It was gone without a trace.

The Inquisitors Palace

Despite being distracted due to the loss of my camera, or, more importantly to me, the photos I had taken during the first days of our holiday I enjoyed our visit to the Inquisitors Palace.

By some quirk of fate, I had unexpectedly upgraded my mobile phone (paying less for my contract) just a few days before we travelled to Malta!  The new phone has an adequate camera, so going forward I was able to capture my own photo memories of our adventures in Malta.

Lunch in Birgu

Photo taken by Mr C

We went in search of lunch, ending up on the harbour front sharing a pizza and enjoying a glass of wine and beer seated in shade at restaurant Sottovento. This was handy for our next intended visit, The Maritime Museum. However, we found that the museum was closed to the public until further notice, because is being refurbished.

Lift to the Harbour

We returned to Valletta, on the way checking at the café near to where I lost my camera. The waitress took my phone number and directed me to the police station that was 200 yards away to see if it had been handed in there. It hadn’t but the police officer also took phone details, although both of us knew that by now my camera was not going to turn up.

Grand Hotel Excelsior

It being my birthday, back at the hotel Mr C ordered a bottle of Prosecco to be delivered to the room. The bar staff said, can you take it yourself? Mr C agreed but they provided no ice bucket so it turned out to be a do it yourself sort of celebratory drink on the balcony! When we sat down, I had a little birthday surprise in that my mum (who struggles with technology) was able to use her new mobile phone to ring me up to say happy birthday.

Dining at Grain Street

We walked into Valletta to find a suitable restaurant for a birthday meal, ending up, to our delight, dining in our restaurant of choice, Grain Street which we had thought was shut that day. The food and service were amazing.

Our cosy nearby bar was shut on Sundays so we returned to the hotel for a nightcap instead.

Grand Hotel Excelsior

4 Comments CherryPie on Nov 24th 2023

Mgarr Harbour

Photo taken by Mr C

We were up bright and early for a 7am breakfast in order to catch a minibus from outside the Phoenicia Hotel. At this time of day, the breakfast room was a lot quieter and more civilised.

We arrived at the collection point outside the Phoenicia Hotel in plenty of time. We waited and waited but there was no sign of the mini bus, leaving us wondering if we were in the right place. When it eventually arrived 15 minutes late having been held up by local traffic, we breathed a sigh of relief.

We set off on the journey to the ferry port, picking up other passengers along the way. The small boats that are usually part of the Tuk Tuk experience were unable to sail due to the windy conditions causing the sea to be too choppy. The weather also meant that we would be unable to sail to the Blue Lagoon later in the day.

Barbie

Photo taken by Mr C

Our ferry sailed from Ċirkewwa to Mgarr harbour where we were directed to Michael, our Tuk Tuk driver for the day. The vehicle is pink and affectionately called Barbie. We shared the vehicle with a French family and travelled in tandem with another Tuk Tuk whose driver was able to speak French. This meant we had a personalised tour just for the two of us with Michael speaking English albeit with an Australian accent. He is a native Gozitan but learned English in Australia and Milton Keynes.

Belvedere

Photo taken by Mr C

Calypso's Cave

Photo taken by Mr C

Our first stop was Belvedere for a scenic viewpoint then we travelled the short distance to Calypso’s cave to take in the fine panoramic views of Ramla bay from this high vantage point. Next, we travelled to the Xwejni Salt Pans experiencing a hilarious toilet paper incident along the way. Our driver had left a container lid open and the roll of toilet paper he was carrying (in case facilities along the way were deficient) flew out over the passengers like streamers. The salt pans are still in use and an amazing site to see and we had the opportunity to walk next to them along the sands.

Salt Pans

Photo taken by Mr C

Ta' Pau Basilica

Photo taken by Mr C

Other places that we visited before we stopped for lunch were Ta’ Pinu Basilica (the miracle church), another couple of high vantage points taking in views over the sea and a local craft outlet where we sampled the local liquors. Opposite this, built into the hillside is Fontana’s wash house, fed by a spring and still used for washing clothes.

We had lunch in The Lion’s Den where we sampled some local dishes including Timpana, a pie filled with pasta and sauce, all accompanied by a delicious glass of local Rose wine.

Gozo Cittadella

Photo taken by Mr C

After lunch we drove to the Cittadella where we climbed to the top to see views across most of Gozo. It would have been nice to have had more time at the Citadelle so that we could have explored the various buildings within the walls. This was our last stop of the day so we headed back to the ferry for our return journey to Malta accompanied by the tune ‘I am a Barbie Girl’.

On the Gozo Ferry

Photo taken by Mr C

After our busy day out, we had booked a table in the hotel restaurant to sample their roasts buffet menu. My first choice, pork turned out to be belly pork which on closer inspection was almost all fat with hardly any meat. Mr C kindly went back to the buffet and got me some slices of duck instead.

We finished our wine in the bar area whilst plotting our adventures for the following day.

8 Comments CherryPie on Nov 22nd 2023

St Paul's shipwreck Church

Photo taken by Mr C

The breakfast room was even more chaotic than it had been the previous day and we had to queue before we could be seated at a table. I sampled the Maltese options and found that they were not choices that I enjoyed for breakfast. However, I am glad I tried them.

After breakfast we walked to St Paul’s Shipwreck church hoping that it might be open. We had tried to visit as walked through the town on previous days but the door was firmly closed. Today it was open but, before we could locate the relics that the church is famous for, the preliminaries for an upcoming church service began. I was caught in an awkward place with no seating nearby, leaving me to stand quietly so as not to disturb the proceedings. When two ladies entered the church and walked down the aisle to sit at the front, I quickly found a seat and felt less out of place. We discreetly left the church before the priest arrived to preside over the main church service.

We had a bit of time on our hands before it was time to meet Edouard, our Jet 2 rep, so we returned to Café Granelli where I enjoyed another of their delightfully refreshing fresh orange juices. Back at the hotel there was no sign of our Jet 2 rep. Mr C struggled with the Jet 2 app on his phone so I went to the hotel reception to enquire. I was intercepted by a concierge asking if he could help. I explained that we were waiting for the Jet 2 rep and he replied immediately that the rep had just phoned to explain that he had been delayed in traffic and would arrive soon.

When Edouard arrived, he was most apologetic and explained that the road had been closed off by police and he had no other option that to wait. He was very helpful in explaining the different excursion options for Gozo, leading us to choose the one option we had originally ruled out, a Tuk Tuk tour of the island. This tour takes you to places that are unreachable by coach. Due to a cancellation, he was able to secure us two places on this tour for the following day.

We returned to Valletta for lunch in the Haagen-Dazs cafe where I indulged in a Pistachio Wonder. A delicious scoop of pistachio ice cream served on a waffle with a drizzle of sauce on top. The advert had been tempting me every time we walked past the café. I wasn’t disappointed, it was delicious.

Lascaris War Rooms

Photo taken by Mr C

Next, we visited the Lascaris War Rooms, an underground complex of tunnels and chambers that housed the War Headquarters during WWII. We were back in the upper levels of Valletta just in time to purchase tickets to view the time gun salute at 4pm from ground level rather than above. It was quite an experience; I felt the back pressure and heat from the firing on my torso. Included in the price was a visit to the recently opened Time Gun Museum.

Gun Salute

Photo taken by Mr C

Gun Salute

Photo taken by Mr C

This left us with enough time to return to the hotel to chill out with a cup of tea on our balcony overlooking the harbour whilst we awaited a phone call from Edouard our Jet 2 rep so that we could pay for our Tuk Tuk trip the following day.

Fish of the Day

We dined in La Sfoglia which offered a choice fresh catch of the day that could be seen on a chilled counter near to the tables. I chose Lampuki and Mr C chose Ambejeck both choices were delicious. Mr C had also opted for a starter of Calamari Fritti and we shared a traditional dessert called imqaret, a fried pastry filled with dates and spices.

On our way back to the hotel for an early night in readiness for an early morning start for our Gozo adventure we had a quick nightcap in the Grano Bar, soaking up the atmosphere.

(Unfortunately due to the loss of my camera, this post is lite on photo memories)

6 Comments CherryPie on Nov 20th 2023

St John's Co Cathedral

Photo taken by Mr C

The breakfast room was rather chaotic and the local cuisine options that I had intended to try had run out, requiring me to fall back on my trusty continental breakfast choices.

After breakfast we walked through the city gate to St John’s Co Cathedral which was a lot quieter than the previous day when the cruise ship was docked. We were provided with an audio tour which pointed out the various aspects and artworks within. We found the order of the guide a little confusing compared to the building layout but we got there in the end. There was a chapel decorated by each nationality within the Knights of Malta. The artwork was exquisite but, for my taste, over the top leaving me with a feeling that the church was more to the glory of man’s achievements rather than to God.

St John's Co Cathedral

Photo taken by Mr C

Even though there was no queue, the Cathedral was still very busy inside so after our visit we stopped at the nearby café Granelli for a refreshing drink, in my case fresh orange juice. We decided that, next, we would visit Fort St Elmo but before we entered, we had lunch in a nearby café where I chose lemon cake and Mr C opted for a sandwich which when it arrived was enormous (enough for two people).

Fort St Elmo

Photo taken by Mr C

Once inside Fort St Elmo, we found that the site also housed The National War Museum. This museum contains some interesting exhibits and gives an insight into what Malta went through during WWI and WWII. One of the most interesting exhibits is the George Cross medal which in 1942 was given to the people of Malta as recognition for their bravery during WWII.

The George Cross Medal

Photo taken by Mr C

There was so much to see in the museum we ended up getting back to the hotel later than intended, leaving us only a short time to get ready for dinner in the Mezzodi restaurant. The food was perfectly presented, in my case sea bream fillets rolled and stood on their ends. We finished off the meal by sharing a portion of Tiramisu with a difference.

Grano Bar

Before returning to the hotel, we enjoyed a nightcap from the Grano bar in the lovely street where St Paul’s Shipwreck Church is located.

14 Comments CherryPie on Nov 18th 2023

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